I noted above that, on the whole, paints in the Game Color range are quite thin. Even losing the metallics, it's still a good deal. But the main question I hope you can all help with is What do you think of them ? CapnBloodbeard, January 17, 2012 in Malifaux Discussion. Or perhaps youve realised youre about to run out of some of your favourite colours and need a quick fix for your armies? Still, this is ultimately a good thing: to avoid swamping your figures with too much paint and losing the detail on their sculpts, you should opt for multiple thin layers of paint instead of a few thicker coats. Or just looking for something new to try? Layering is when the Vallejo Game Color paints really come into their own. I was, however, pleasantly surprised by the whites and light greys in the Game Color range. Just make sure you shake them like crazy before trying to use them, and be ready to thin things down with a little water, as you would a normal paint. I'm pondering ordering the 72 bottle kit but not sure which one to get. Google has informed me you cannot currently buy this particular set as Vallejo (like many companies) are currently suffering from some big supply issues, but all of the colours that were in it are still readily available for you to purchase. Then youre in luck: paints dont come with a much better pedigree than the legendary Vallejo, and their Game Color range is one of the best available. VoltorRWH That would bring the price closer to $2.60 a bottle. I see Vallejo do About 220 bottles in the Model colour range and 60 or so in Game colour, but I have many questions: Are these the same range in different bottles ? I don't have much time so I'll make this one short. The model black brown is the best brown on the market. In general, it's easy enough to go for a mid-range tone and lighten or darken by mixing - it just gets harder to replicate exact shades, though I find that's not really an issue when highlighting. In stark contrast to the regular paints, the Game Color Metallics are incredibly thick and heavy and, whilst you could probably get away with not thinning down the non-metallic colours if you really wanted to, youd be a fool to try the same thing with their metallic counterparts. If you're open to being sold on airbrushing - they really make painting much more fun in a number of ways, and speed up a lot of boring tasks like base coating and highlighting, I can dig up an old post on that too. I probably don't use half of mine on a regular basis, either. My collection includes a good number of each line, quite a few Pro paints, and a few straggler GW's (all of which are now in nice dropper bottles so I don't have to throw them around to open those aweful old jars). The model colour line are darker colours with more intermediates for blending, layering etcLots of browns, ochres, greens, greys and so on. Part of the time, I end up mixing a strange shade for something. The good thing about Vallejos Game Color range is that they work fairly well with airbrushes so much so that even a complete airbrushing novice like me can appreciate them. Powered by Invision Community. If you don't want a 'cartoony' army, I would go with VMC. As such, be prepared to take some time and care thinning these down appropriately in order to ensure you can apply an even and consistent coat across your miniatures. I remember spending fruitless hours battling with Auric Armour Gold and Liberator Gold to almost no avail. Result of Painter : "there's got to be an easier way ". Do you feel like there really isn't a noticeable difference in color between a VMC and VGC paint on the same line of the Dakka conversion chart? The reds are decent, gory red is a nice dark red, bloody red is basically orange though. Because the consistency of the paint is that much more aqueous, it can be quite difficult to get a decent amount of paint onto the brush for drybrushing. I'll hit up the LGS that sells VGC and see if he can't talk his supplier into slipping a bottle or 2 in with his next order. On the Vallejo website. Of course I do end up with leftover paint on the pallet, but thats a small price to pay for proper paint consistency. Soo back to the point ( no really this time ) I really need help on choosing the right series of colour to change to, and would appreciate all of your views and feelings on the Vallejo range of colour. I saw someone who used model color on their Eldar and it lookedok. I have a half dozen bottles of Coat D'arms, but they are more than 10 years old. Secondly both ranges of Vallejo colors are very good. Model colors are a bit thicker (read: need to be thinned more), and higher in pigment (or so I think for most colors). Thats just how this kind of thing works. your likes/ dislikes comparisons ?? Besides the difference in colors there's also a different binding agent in them. Part of the time, I'll use standard colors that I like: Black, Beasty Brown, etc. They're good for the price per volume and range of colours but definitely on the glossy side so I still prefer to use Vallejo Airs where possible, but they have their uses. Youll be able to grab the Vallejo range from just about any reputable non-Warhammer hobby store. Also, I feel Game Color can preserve brush strokes while Model Color doesn't. Sorry for getting 2 big posts (so far) to read through ; p. edit: Here's a shot of my paint collection from a while ago, it's increased since then but this gives a rough idea. Wonder how he does it? Looking for a new range of paints to keep the unpainted plastic hordes at bay? It just takes several more coats. Overall, model colors seem to be the most popular among the painters I've talked to. This is due to the medium. When Game Color saw the light, they were intended to be used directly from the bottles, without needing to add water. The Reaper flesh tones are very nice. Don't do it. There are some great colors in the line, but most of them are horrible. A community for painting miniatures and models. I find it makes the models pop a bit more on the table. I'll probably end up going Game Color for the less neutral colors (reds, yellows, blues, etc) as I hear they are more vibrant but I don't mind having some Game Color and some Model Color. Of course, if you're competent in mixing your own colors, you may not need that many paints. What I'm more interested in is the color choices. Game Colors are nice. The likelihood is, as youre plummeting towards the ground, youll hit the Vallejo branch at least once, if not several times, on the way down. Some of the colours are thinner then others I find. I've read in a few places that Model Color lays down better but is perhaps less durable (but that issue is alleviated with a varnish). Neither range has inks, though there is a range of transparent colors in the Model color line. Vallejos Polished Gold, on the other hand, is excellent and goes on wonderfully. For example MM has the Vallejo Model Color Range Box Set for $220. As youd expect, though, some colours base easier than others. ). Everything from tabletop wargames to board games, display pieces or just for fun! They do have a couple of skin tones that don't just reek of orange. This is the only real, major gripe I have with the Game Color range: some of the paints are lovely and thick, and take to being watered down exceptionally well. I'll probably start with a set of 16 game colour paints (modified from the basic set). I just pick colors that I like. Their black here is a much more blue-black than, say, Citadels Abaddon Black as an example. This does however have the sideeffects that the color rubs off easy which isn't good for wargaming. Overall, its a pretty mixed picture: some of the paints are fantastic for airbrushing, others arent so good. Re: Vallejo Model color vs Game color paints. Everything I'd have said in comparison has been said. RE: Foundation paints I used them for a while when I was doing heavy production painting and they really do make the job faster. Clickthesharelinksatthebottomofthisscreen(orontheleftforcomputersandtablets), Want to keep updated with the site? Chances are, even if youre relatively new to the miniature painting hobby, youll have heard of Vallejo. The main issue with Game Color is that they are incredibly inconsistent, not only in how they look dried, but in terms of the coverage of the paint, the actual consistency of each individual liquid, it's absurd really.. It has 67 paints, but buying them individually ($2.45) is $164. It's always easier to thin paint then thicken it. Hmmm, Model colour does have a tendency to rub off before you have time to seal it. I may actually use this recipe, or a close version of it, again. I found the metallic paints actually went through the airbrush and onto a figure very well. Oh, and don't forget craft paints and Liquitex Basics. I've not found a single company who's flesh colors I like. So I'm brand new to Malifaux, and I've picked up a Perdita Ortega box set as well as a Pandora one (no particular reason except they were cheap, 2nd hand but unpainted). Restore formatting, Model color is mixed with something (latex I think) to make it cover better and smoother. I still use GW inks on occassion, and still have a few select colors that I use that I just haven't replaced with vallejo. May 25, 2004 in Tips & Advice: Painting. I've decided (for various reasons) to go with Vallejo paints. Copyright Reaper Miniatures If you decide that Vallejo are the paints for you, you might want to consider buying yourself a vortex mixer to save your arm. White can be a bit hit and miss, either being too watery or too clumpy. 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They have the finest metalic grain I've seen in a model paint. Long story short - pick up a few paints from different ranges and see what you like best. I've seen lots of article/videos where people compare Vallejo to other brands, but not much in comparison between the different Vallejo lines, especially with colors that are "equivalent". Im not saying this is the fault of the paint its probably as much my own inexperience but its worth bearing in mind. Other than that, I mix them myself. Theyre priced very similarly to alternatives, such as Games Workshops Citadel Colour range, so you wont be out of pocket swapping your regular paints out for a few of these. The red did not go on as well. You know you will probably not like what you dig up, but you'll take it anyway. A new project on the horizon and youre considering trying something new? To see our up-to-date list of the best paints for your miniatures, just click the image above. minimo airbrushing airtex vallejo beauti Also, when I eventually decide on colours (bloody hard to decide, once I choose a colour then I have to pick one of a dozen or more shades! However, from the Game Color line, Beasty Brown and Scorched Brown are must have colors for me. Sure, you can do it as evidenced by the images below but it might just be easier to reach for a less watery paint in the first instance and save yourself some time, and stress. VMC is a tad thinner than GW paint which is pretty good. You can post now and register later. Vallejo have been making paints since 1965 originally for cartoons in a time before animation or computers. Then there's Vallejo skin tones, Vallejo Opaques, Vallejo Game/Model Colours, Vallejo Airs, washes/fluorescents/inks, and odds and ends. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. The oranges are awful also. As such, the end result was a bit of a mess. IT does include some brushes, varnishes, and medium, but I think I can pick up those for less than the ~$60 difference. What did you think of this Review? By Do I need to get foundation paints for base colours? Most of the paints are a semi-gloss when they dry, some are gloss, some are matte. It took me ages to get a decent level of opacity on the leprechauns head and the beak on the Lord-Imperatants cloak. With the exception of certain peculiar colors, I've found them to roughly the same pigment strength when thinned to the same level. Game colors are meant to be analogs of Citadels. I like the Game Color for its thinner consistency and its bright color range (it pretty much matches up 1:1 with GW's line). I have a ton of things I could paint. The transtion from one to the other will be easy, since they are colors you are already familiar with. ), am I typically better off getting 3 or so shades along the one colour for the shadows / highlighting? There are some standout colours that work really well or look really good though, such as Game Colour/Air Charred Brown for a rich brown or VMA Hull Red to shade your reds. EDIT: stay away from vallejo flesh colours. The problems I had with them are of course the annoying flip tops they come in and the fact that they will quickly thicken up after you pop that bottle open for the first time. On the base of the figure above, you can see where the paint has smeared on the base, as opposed to applying properly. Most of us around here (including me of course) use some of each. I honestly think my brain rot began by using those when I was new to this hobby as a lad. Is there a reason to have both? I've been painting for a couple of years now and have yet needed to buy a 2nd bottle of something I've run out of. With approaching 60 years in the business, thats the kind of name that comes with serious pedigree, and a great deal of experience. Bleah. If you are used to Citadels, go with the Game Colors. Be wary, though: whilst you might suspect you actually need a reasonable amount of water to get these paints to their optimum consistency, you do not. I'd probably go that route barring a better alternative. My videos from exploring abandoned buildings, 40k battle reports and airsoft. (I also use Doc O'Brien's weathering powders.). I threw mine in a box and stopped using them, that's how bad they are, they cover like torn tissue paper. If you don't get anything else, buy the Smoke. Mostly high-level stuff, but still informative. Painters of all skill levels are welcome! They also have a wider range including some great muted colors. I use a mix of (mostly) P3, a bit of each on Game Colour and Model Colour, and Vallejo Air Metallics (the Air Metallics have the finest particles on the market, making for a truer metallic finish), which I just started using. This makes them perfect for gradually shifting or building colour on the surface of a miniature. Only you will know when you have enough paints for your purposes. I use mainly GW fundations, washes and a few P3 which I can thin as much as I like(those P3 pots are killing my thumb to open though, not a good system at all!!). As such, its very difficult to try and slap a catch-all conclusion on such a dynamic and varied paint range. Paste as plain text instead, Upload or insert images from URL. Clear editor. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Its the consistency again. Vallejo is that paint brand people first go to when stepping out of the Citadel Comfort Zone.