We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Matrixyl - A 5 amino acid peptide with promising research showing that it can reduce fine lines, wrinkles and improve skin texture. Osmoprotective compounds are interesting, skincare-wise, as they are thought to be able to increase intracellular osmosis, meaning water is drawn into the skin cells. It's also often used to create liposomes. The hard thing seems to be eating enough omega-3-s, more specificallyeating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3, but that is a topic for a what-is-good-to-eat-site and not for us. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Well, they aresuper-potent antioxidants, muchstronger than Vitamin C or Vitamin E. And if that's not enough, GSPs and other flavonoids in grape also show UV protecting and anti-cancer properties. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one publishedin-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin Cthreefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). A form of skincare superstar, vitamin C.Even though we are massive vitamin C fans, Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is our least favorite. So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. Centella Asiatica also often shows up in products that try to treat cellulite or striae. In general algae extracts serve as moisturizing, emollient and thickening agents, and many of them also have additional anti-aging properties. As for the hair the hydration effect is also true there. Green Tea - one of the most researched natural ingredients that contains the superstar actives called catechins. An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). The most abundant ones in grape are called proanthocyanidins, and 60-70% of them are found in the seeds (it's also often abbreviated as GSP - grape seed proanthocyanidins). Please try again later! It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesizeit and has to take it from food. Ideaal voor de (zeer) droge, gevoelige huid, de huid met roodheden en rosacea. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. If that wasnt enough panthenol is also useful in nail and hair care products. LA is not only important for dry, barrier damaged skin types but also for acne-prone skin. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. If you see a cosmetic product that claims that it has "Botox-like effect" then two things are almost certain: one, the product overpromises and two, it contains Argireline. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. As for linoleic acid and the skin, LA is a really important little guy found naturallyin our skin. Its used mainly for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, but according to manufacturer info, its also sebum regulating so it's a perfect ingredient for problem skin products. We have to admit thatAlgae Extract is not our favorite ingredient name. Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits. Good old water, aka H2O. It is there in lots of products in tiny amounts (honestly, we do not really understand why), however, we do not know about any vitamin C serum featuring AP in high amounts. Saccharomyces cerevisiae (SC) is the fancy name for common bakers yeast. With thiscontext in mind let's see whatATIP might be able to do. Pure Vitamin C. A skincare superstar that is clinically proven to boost collagen production (in 5-20% concentration), fade hyperpigmentation and boost UV protection under sunscreen. The basis for this claim is that it targets the same wrinkle forming mechanism (wrinkles caused by facial muscle movement) as Botox, but the way it works is very different. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. Probably thats why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. A 2015 research paper on thepotential of uses of algae in cosmetics summarizes that algae are rich sources of biologically active metabolites including antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, alginates, polysaccharides, and carotenoids. Like crazy stable. Overall, linoleic acid is a multi-functional skin goodiewith barrier repairing, acne-reducing, and skin-lightening magic abilities. An amino acid that is one of the primary building blocks of hair keratin and skin collagen. So LA-deficiency in the skin seems to be connected not only to an impaired skin barrier but also to acne and smearing LA all over your face might help with your problem skin. This does not mean thatascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable ifascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are alltriglycerides. Apart from smelling nice (and thus being a popular natural fragrance alternative),Mandarin Orange Oil also has significant antioxidant properties that's comparable to synthetic antioxidant BHT or oil-soluble antioxidant big shot vitamin E. On the con side, the fragrant components of citrus peels might irritate sensitive skin and citrus peels also containthe problematic compound called furanocoumarin that makes them (mildly) phototoxic. There is also research showing that panthenol can help our skin to produce more lovely lipids that are important for a strong and healthy skin barrier. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. Een gemengde of gecombineerde huid verzorgen. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. The most common skincare ingredient of all. One of the biological activities of thecentellosides isto be able to stimulate GAGs (glycosaminoglycans - polysaccharides that are part of the liquidy stuff between our skin cells), and especially hyaluronic acid synthesis in our skin. It's a nice, basic oil that is often used duetoits greatsmoothing, softening and moisturizing properties. It's a natural moisturizing factorand might also help to speed up wound healing. The essential oil coming from the peel of the mandarin orange or tangor. Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-western North America. It Immediately Minimizes and soothes damaged skin with its pharmaceutical grade vitamin C. This Day Serum rejuvenates even the dullest, tired skin. This is not hard at all as plenty of nuts (such as flax, poppy or sesame seeds) and vegetable oils (such as sunflower or safflower) are rich in LA. Not really that good. The good ones contain 50-90% catechins (and often make the product brown and give it a distinctive smell), Green tea is proven to be a great antioxidant, UV protectant, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic and antimicrobial, Because of these awesome properties green tea is a great choice for anti-aging and also for skin diseases including rosacea, acne and atopic dermatitis, Works best between a concentration of 5-20%, Boosts the skins own collagen production, If used under sunscreen it boosts its UV protection, Extremely unstable and oxidizes very easily in presence of light or air, Stable in solutions with water only if pH is less than 3.5 or in waterless formulations, Vit E + C work in synergy and provide superb photoprotection, Ferulic acid doubles the photoprotection effect of Vit C+E and helps to stabilize Vit C, Potent Vit. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. Ideaal voor de droge acnehuid die een hydratatieboost nodig heeft! Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. Similar to other plant oils, it is loaded with skin-nourishing fatty acids (oleic acid - 55-86% and linoleic acid 7-35%) and contains several other skin goodies such as antioxidant vitamin E and vitamin B versions. Bel 023 711 45 33 of chat met ons! Thanks. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are"emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". The manufacturer made a double-blind, one-month long clinical study on 10 women and found that twice a day application of 4% Biopeptide El improved skin firmness by 33% and skin tone by 20%. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. Similar to other plant oils, it is loaded with skin-nourishing fatty acids (oleic acid - 55-86% and linoleic acid 7-35%) and contains several other skin goodies such as antioxidant vitamin E and vitamin B versions. Argireline - famous peptide that's often referred to as "Botox in a jar". An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. They compared four hydrogels with different moisturizer actives and although all the formulas did hydrate the skin, the one with Imperata Cylindrica extract performed less well than the same formula with urea or sugar-based hydrating trio, called Aquaxyl. Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. A spray-dried or freeze-dried version of Aloe Leaf Juice. Nice to spot on any ingredient list. Asiaticoside was shown to increase antioxidant levels on rats skin when applied at 0.2%. Its hydrating ability is due to the chemical composition of therhizomes thatcontain natural osmoprotective compounds such as3-dimethylsulfoniopropionate (DMSP), potassium, starches, and sugars. Wij noemen het ook wel onze 'alleskunner', omdat het meerdere huidproblemen tegelijkertijd aanpakt. A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but awax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). Its a humectant meaning that it can help the skin to attract water and then hold onto it. Voor optimaal resultaatdoeje eerst een double cleanse (2x achter elkaar reinigen), waarna je vervolgens het VITAL C - Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum aanbrengt. Usually different kind of yeast extracts are used in skincare for their great hydrating, and general skin conditioning properties. The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able toboost collagen production. That is probably no coincidence. Read more about licorice and why it's a skincare superstar here. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short). What is not so good is that, as the great review study about vitamin C derivatives in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology writes, MAP is "at very best, poorly absorbed in comparison to AA.". Thanks to the positive charge, it also creates a complex with AHAs (AHAs like to lose a hydrogen ion and be negatively charged, so the positive and the negative ions attract each other) that causes a "time-release AHA effect" and reduces the irritation associated with AHAs. Third,ATIP seems to have all three magic abilitiesof pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has askin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. The essential oil coming from the peel of the mandarin orange. MAP does solve the stability problem: it's stable up to pH 7, so far so good. C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. An essential amino acid (a building block of skin proteins like collagen) that is a skin hydrator. The good news is that in-vitro data shows that MAP does convert, but the bad news is we do not really know if the same is true on real, living human skin. The store will not work correctly in the case when cookies are disabled. Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (bebroken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it. A form of skincare superstar, Vitamin C. If you do not know, what the big deal about Vitamin C is, click here and read all about it, we will wait here for you. Its used mainly for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, but according to manufacturer info, its also sebum regulating so it'. A six amino acid peptide that is claimed to improve firmness and skin tone. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. Third, another study that wanted to examine the antioxidant properties of AP was surprised to find that even though AP does have nice antioxidant properties;following UVB radiation (the same one that comesfrom the sun) it also promotes lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity. We could find one research paper to back this up: It has found that SC indeed increases skin moisture and had improved skin microrelief (the small wrinkles and surface irregularities of skin). This all sounds great, however, in terms of comparative effectiveness, Imperata Cylindricacame up somewhat short in the study published in theJournal of cosmetic dermatology. Its a yellowish powder with a nice sweet smell. The salt form of one of the main anti-inflammatory ingredients in the licorice plant, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate. If you are into vitamin C, you cantake a look at more promising derivatives here. Though most research is manufacturer sponsored, the clinical studies aboutPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 are promising. Bottom line, if you are into peptides, this is a good one to try. MAS also gives nicesensory properties, it is not tacky or sticky and gives a rich, creamy skin feel. It's readily biodegradable. One of them compared 3ppm Pal-KTTKS with 700 ppm (0.07%) retinol and found that they showed similar wrinkle improving ability with the peptide showing better skin tolerability. You canread a bit more about the juicehere. Huidtype:Alle huidtypen. Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits. It's uniquely excellent at helping the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized. Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). As f.c. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. A study shows that a nail treatment liquide with 2% panthenol could effectively get into the nail and significantly increase the hydration of it. (Many plant oils tend to go off pretty quickly). It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid. In addition, the extent to which it can prevent muscles from contracting (and to smooth wrinkles) is very different (otherwise why would anyone use still Botox?). It's alsoparticularly good at treating dry brittle nails (source). It lightens hyperpigmentation (aka UVB caused sun spots) both byblocking the melanin production ofmelanocytes (the skin cells that make the pigment melanin) and by enhancingthe desquamation of melanin pigment from the upper layers of the skin. Voor een volledige routine gebruik je daarna je dag- of, 2020 Gabson B.V. | Professional Skin Solutions, Alle huidtypen (vooral geschikt voor rosacea en roodheden), Stimuleert de aanmaak van collageen en celvernieuwing, Bevat antioxidanten voor een gezonde glow, Vitamine C mix (sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid), Hyaluronzuur - Houdt tot 1000x zijn eigen gewicht in water vast, Neuropeptide - ontspant de gezichtsspieren. Also, it's extremely unstable and hard to formulate. We especially recommend it if you are after skin brightening as this seems to be thestrongest point of MAP. Unless the brand tells you what they use, it's impossible to know for sure. So the aloe powder hassimilarsoothing, emollient and moisturizing properties as the juice. The most probable scenario for the Alge Extract is that it works as a moisturizer and emollient and it mighthave some additional anti-aging properties. It's a branched chain amino acid that is claimed toenhance energy, increase endurance and aid in muscle tissue recovery and repair when taken as a supplement. Regarding the three magic abilities of pure vitamin C(antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener), there is no published data about MAP's antioxidant or photoprotection capabilities. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give uspeople environmental protection. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, eating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3, Read all the geeky details about Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract here >>, take a look at more promising derivatives here, Read all the geeky details about Ascorbic Acid here >>, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, Acne.org has this not fully proven theory, You can read all about the pure form here, simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair, another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae, Green tea is one of the most researched natural ingredients, The active parts are called polyphenols, or more precisely catechins (EGCG being the most abundant and most active catechin), There can be huge quality differences between green tea extracts. Its a yellowish powder with a nice sweet smell. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. (We also checkedProspector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). Bottom line: Gotu Kola is a great plant ingredient with proven wound healing, anti-inflammatory,and antioxidant properties. The emollient plant oil that comes from almonds. As the "house of card" structure takes some time to form but collapses quickly if the formula is stirred, products thickened with MAS can be thick in the jar but become easily spreadable upon application (called thixotropy). It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid.It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesize. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. These were just three random examples from three manufacturers all called Algae extract even though they all come from different algae with different claims. There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. An easy-to-formulate, commonly used, nice to have ingredient thats also called pro-vitamin B5. Zo geeft het de huid een ware hydratatieboost, zit het bomvol antioxidanten waardoor de huid egaler wordt en een gezonde glow krijgt. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. A type of lipid that's the major component of all cell membranes. LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). Also a good team player and works in synergy with other thickeners such as Cellulose Gum or Xanthan Gum. Arginine usually has apositive charge (cationic) that makes it substantive to skin and hair (those are more negatively charged surfaces) and an excellent film former.