Chronologically speaking, the first of these would be the Le Bresil (16,100) named for Santos-Dumonts first flying machine, unveiled on 4 July 1898, the first in a numbered series of airships hed unveil over the next nine years and his first authored bid to defy gravity. A simple device on the reverse side releases the spring bars allowing you to change the strap in a cinch. It was the ninth version of his airships, a single-seater air travel solution that was meant for use in urban spaces. If you view it from the side you can appreciate the elegant silhouette of the case. A final model in the limited edition, and what might be considered Santos-Dumonts crowning glory, is the La Demoiselle, inspired by the monoplane with which he capped his career as an aviator, prior to the start of the First World War. Second, the dial has a stamped guilloch-like pattern in the centre, adding depth and animation. Luckily I didnt get it for some reasons until this ultra-thin mechanical version has hit the market. Cartier has a keen sense for elegant, original and effortless watch designs. I have also bought the medium version for my wife. Unlike the original, where the track was placed in the centre of the dial, it is stamped on the perimeter of the dial. Fitted with blue sword-shaped hands, there is nothing else on the dial except the word Cartier printed below 12 oclock. While Im not usually a fan of two-tone watches, steel-and-gold certainly works well on the Santos-Dumont XL. There are plenty more that Cartier will be presenting this year to collectors, including new models in the Santos de Cartier range. The light brown dial with pomme hands bears a texture of Panama hat weave, and is matched with a made-to-measure Panama weave strap. I agree to my personal data being stored and used to receive the newsletter or other updates about Monochrome Watches. David Urie helps run a website that sells watches: https://www.mabawatches.com. 14 bis with an MSRP of $7,250. Another improvement over the quartz is the integrated leather bracelet and the versatility offered by the quick-release bars allowing you to change the mood of the watch in minutes. In a two-tone setup its just an undoubted classic. The new @hublot Big, The @tagheuer Monaco Dark Lord is back with, A $2000+ @casio_us? The three models are limited in production, with Le Bresil restricted to 100 units, La Baladeuse to 300 examples, and the no. In the last decade, Cartiers work in the watch industry has broadened from commercial watches to high watchmaking and even concept timepieces such as the ID series. Raf Simons will be showing at London Fashion Week 2022, Off to the tennis? Similarly fitted with the manual-wound 430 MC calibre, its delivered in its own lacquered maple wood presentation case, accompanied by a travel pouch in brown alligator leather and a pair of Santos De Cartier cufflinks in rhodiumised 18K white gold with red tiger eye inlays. It is definitely a competitor for the $5000 $10000 watch market. The three Cartier Santos-Dumont XL models come with alligator leather straps and a pin buckle. The prices start at EUR 5,650 for the plain steel version (ref. Among the many shapes and designs, one of the most emblematic watches is the Santos, generally acknowledged as the oldest mens wristwatch. Why? And its dial is printed with a subtle three-dimensionality. Concluding the trilogy of large Santos-Dumont watches in this instance is the No 14 Bis (6,200), which renders on its reverse the kite of compartments its inventor devised as an early form of fuselage and for which the pilot was required to stand, connected to its fins and rudder by cables. The dial of the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat is actually very similar to this Santos model. Each of these watches are powered by the 430MC calibre, a mechanical hand-wound movement, and the first three will be exclusively available on the Cartier website from end April onwards. https://monochrome-watches.com/cartier-santos-dumont-xl-hand-wind-2020-review/, History of the Pilot Watch Part I Cartier Santos 1904, Weekly Watch Photo Cartier Santos 100 Carbon Watch, Revolution Onlines Cartier forum started one year ago today, The 2020 Cartier Santos-Dumont Limited Edition Watches, 2006 Previous Santos-Dumont models, for example, the 90th anniversary model of 1996 measuring 36mm with an ultra-slim Piguet movement and Breguet hands, is hard to find on the market today and has become a hot collectors item. I have owned the two-tone version for one week. Finally, the hands are blued and echo the colour of the crowns cabochon. How far can you stray from the original without corrupting its essence? Relayed in numbers, the case might seem large for a dress watch but believe me when I say that the word flat is misleading. Though initially I had a big concern about its size because of my skinny wrist(~16cm), I decided to grab it quickly after I put it on my wrist. The watch is inspired by Santos-Dumonts Panama hat, which was a style icon of his. santos dumont cartier edition limitee mens The new limited edition watch changes this drastically by updating most aspects of the dial. Last year, a Santos-Dumont watch that paid homage to the 1904 model was quietly introduced alongside a Santos de Cartier chronograph. Nowhere near as pleasing aesthetically as the original with Roman numerals and better dial visibility not to mention this has a tacky engraving on the back. For more information, please visit Cartiers website. The engraving here is of the no. taxes) orUSD 8,350 (excl. Lastly, the no. cartier buffalo sunglasses horn temples It was the aircraft in which his first public European flight took place, and with which he won the Archdeacon Cup as well as the Aero Club of France prize for flight distance. Le Brsil is the most luxe of the group, opting for an all-platinum treatment topped with a ruby cabochon crown and a commemorative engraving of Santos-Dumonts simple and elegant airship of the same name from 1898. Wed earlier introduced the new Santos-Dumont XL collection, newly powered with a mechanical movement, the 430MC manual movement. congratulations Cartier for a beautiful work. Featuring a stainless-steel case and gilded steel, sword-shaped hands, a grey anthracite dial and blue spinel winding crown, the No 14 Bis is limited to 500 pieces. Whereas now its almost the most affordable watch within the Cartier collection. Normally, the XL model is available with a silver-coloured or dark grey dial with printed Roman numerals and a sunray-brushed pattern. and entirely polished. If you look closely, youll see how the leather strap reaches all the way up to meet the case leaving practically no space between the leather and the metal. Hmmm. 14 bis), Movement: manufacture 430 MC hand-wound two-hand movement, Strap/Bracelet: gray alligator leather strap (Le Brsil and no. 14 bis opting for clean gray, but the otherwise conservative La Baladeuse takes a left-field pairing with an earthy olive green tone strap. But there are more coming for 2021. Later on, there are illustrations of people flying around London and Paris by air but his ideas predated even those. Characterised by a square case with visible screws, a shape that flew in the face of fashion of the day for round pocket watches, the Santos has gone down in history as the first wristwatch purpose-built and designed for a man. WATCH GIVEAWAY: Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver. Manual-winding calibre 430MC; hours and minutes; 38-hour power reserve, 43.5mm x 31.4mm (W); stainless steel with 18K yellow-gold bezel and spinel cabochon crown, limited to 500 pieces (Le 14 bis); 18K yellow gold with sapphire cabochon crown, limited to 300 pieces (La Baladeuse); platinum with ruby cabochon crown, limited to 100 pieces (Le Brsil), 46.6mm x 33.9mm (W); platinum; limited to 30 pieces, Panama weave made-to-measure fabric; brown alligator leather; comes in a watch box with an alligator leather travel pouch and white-gold cufflinks with red tiger-eye inlay. 2022 Monochrome, An online magazine dedicated to fine watches, Stay up to date with the latest post and updates. Never been a fan of Cartier but that does look nice but with no second hand or date and that crown looks like it will stick into your wrist.Ill not bother. Another welcome touch is the interchangeable strap system accompanying the integrated leather strap. Are there more Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1s on the way? Weve been pleasantly surprised by the overall package offered by Cartier with these new Santos-Dumont XL. All in all, with this combination of colours and the compact size of the watch, this Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition is once again typical of Cartiers vision of elegance. Not conservative, slightly original, effortlessly elegant, Stay up to date with the latest post and updates. For its eminent curator, Lord Foster Of Thames Bank, the standout exhibit of the Cartier In Motion exhibition, which opened the newly renovated Design Museum in 2017, was the faithful re-creation of the dainty Demoiselle No 20, an aircraft that might be described as a microlight today, but back when it first flew (in 1909) represented the last word in early-20th century personal technology. More details at cartier.com. He explored the different ways of flying at the time, and when you think about all the different flying machines developed today, the only difference is the technique and technology. The case, thanks to the Piaget-based hand-wound movement, is also pretty thin, at 7.5mm. And they tell us the blue jewel in the crown is just a synthetic. Around back, as the name suggests, is an engraving of the small, motorized La Baladeuse airship used by Santos-Dumont to fly around the city of Paris. This watch was revived in 2019, first with quartz movements and a design that paid tribute to the 1904 model, including a beaded winding crown and the prominent blue cabochon along with a flatter, less voluminous case than the Santos de Cartier. The brand has managed to retain the beauty and spirit of the original model, with its thin and compact proportions, its beautiful bezel and overall elegant (yet bolder than you think) design, but also to integrate a slight dosage of modernity that, overall, creates a contemporary piece with great presence. The iconic square bezel with eight screws, the pointy blue cabochon protruding from the beaded crown, the Roman numerals, the railroad tracks, etc However, the dimensions and finishes are more in tune with contemporary tastes and our expectations from a Maison like Cartier. Where things change compared to the watches offered in the permanent collection is on the dial side. First, the colour, which is now a warm and rather striking ros. dumont santos 18k swisswatchexpo The Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition 2021 Steel-and-Gold, https://monochrome-watches.com/cartier-santos-dumont-xl-limited-edition-2021-steel-gold-crw2sa0025-hands-on-price/, Weekly Watch Photo Cartier Santos 100 Carbon Watch, The 2020 Cartier Santos-Dumont Limited Edition Watches, History of the Pilot Watch Part I Cartier Santos 1904, 2006 This steel-and-gold Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition is worn on a well-integrated dark grey alligator strap closed by a pin buckle. There was a teaser just ahead of Watches & Wonders 2020, with four limited versions of the Santos-Dumont with engravings of the aviators legendary flying machines on the caseback. 14 bis., Model: Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited-Edition Le Brsil, Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited-Edition La Baladeuse, Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited-Edition no. Beating inside the case is the calibre 430 MC, which is based on the Piaget 430P, a 2.15mm hand-wound movement also used in the Drive Extra-Flat. It also adds warmth and a pleasant touch of luxury. Armani's got you kitted out, Print copies & Digital access for only 1. I agree with George, this article is the most detailed and in depth on this model so far. Next, housed in yellow gold and with a matching champagne dial in sunray finishing is La Baladeuse (in English, the portable lamp), which was a motorised airship that Santos-Dumont flew in Parisian skies in 1903. Over the years, the collection has evolved along sportier and bolder lines, well-represented by these recent models. Is it finally time to give in to the sleeveless trend? Intended for personal use by a presumably well-breached commuter, Demoiselle No 20 was also the worlds first true production aircraft, the plans available to any enterprising aviator, rather than simply patented by its creator, Brazilian polymath Alberto Santos-Dumont. Now, theres a debate within the team, between our founder Frank and my managing editor Brice. The silvered dial, decorated with a sunray satin finish, displays Cartiers signature Roman numerals and the railroad track that appeared on the first Santos-Dumont model. To me Cartier has always meant opulence and class and the Santos-Dumont XL certainly fills the bill. despite my criticism of the watch (above) simply because of the features / price ratio, the article itself certainly deserves praise, and I actually still would love to wear a Santos myself .I absolutely have no issues with how it looks.Cartier have done an excellent job in that respect and in their favor have released enough different versions to give us a choice of dial. Cartier has made a reputation as a brand of preserving iconic forms, and this new engraved Santos-Dumont trilogy is an excellent example of this. And this is where Brice doesnt agree To him, the silver brushed dial is the main reason why he appreciates this new take on the Santos-Dumont, with a slightly more modern and minimalistic approach. The Santos-Dumont 14 bis winged aircraft for which this watch was named, was inspired by the flight of birds, with a minimalist construction and cables that connected the fins of the craft with the rudder and fuselage. The Santos took off again in the 1970s when it was revisited in a bracelet piece with screws on the bezel and bracelet. All three are powered by the in house 430 MC hand-wound movement, providing 38 hours of power reserve. Limited to 100 pieces, the Santos-Dumont Le Bresil features a Large 43.5 x 31.4mm case in platinum, fitted with a ruby winding crown and 12 polished metallic Roman numerals and sword-shaped hands. I agree to my personal data being stored and used to receive the newsletter or other updates about Monochrome Watches. CRW2SA0017) and EUR 15,000for the solid 18k pink gold model (ref. Its worth pointing out that there are two Santos collections at Cartier: the core Santos de Cartier collection and the more historically accurate, and more often than not, limited Santos-Dumont watches. In the last few years, however, Cartier has once again brought back focus to its ability to create incredibly elegant wristwatches, and in 2020, the Santos-Dumont returns to the fore. 14 bis airplane, one of Santos-Dumonts first award-winning craft, an airplane that first flew in 1906. Not only was Louis Cartiers watch the precursor of the gents wristwatch, but the fact that it was worn by a pilot has also earned it the title of the worlds first pilot watch. The watch is restricted to 30 pieces, and comes with a full box and set of accessories, including a pair of white-gold cufflinks with red tiger-eye inlay, brown alligator leather travel pouch as well as an additional brown alligator leather strap. Although wristwatches existed, they were strictly a feminine accessory. The four chosen planes which are the most famous show how Santos-Dumont explored the different ways of flying that were available at the time.. Stay tuned. It measures 46.6mm in length, which is about as large as most 38mm round watches, but the width of the case is only 33.9mm which is, admittedly, quite small compared to modern standards. It may not follow the common formula, but the Cartier Santos-Dumont series is one of the very first purpose-built pilot watches. All three are available now through authorized retailers, with the Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited Edition Le Brsil priced at $18,700; the Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited Edition La Baladeuse coming in at $14,300; and the Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited Edition no. CRWSSA0032), EUR 7,800 for the steel-and-gold model (ref. A simple dial with no flourishes, it doesnt steal the limelight from the case and its dynamic finishes. However, in 2020, the Parisian brand reintroduced the original design of the iconic Santos-Dumont model with its typical dandy flair in an XL size with a hand-wound movement. In reality, it isnt an XL-sized watch at all; it is more about compact dimensions and elegance. 14 bis to 500 watches worldwide. While Im not usually a fan of two-tone watches, steel-and-gold certainly works well on the Santos-Dumont XL. Perhaps the pice de rsistance certainly the most limited is the 30-piece La Demoiselle, an extra large (46.6 x 33.9mm) platinum model recognising Santos-Dumonts most successful flying machine and the first to be mass produced. Today, A new vintage inspired dive watch collection from, @longines continues their smash hit vintage reissu, After 17 years @mbandf launches their 20th caliber, Not every brand is after 1:1 reissues of the most, For your Sunday reading pleasure, @carol.besler di, Last weekend we celebrated @bremontwatches newest, Big, orange, and complicated. For Watches & Wonders 2020, Cartier turns its focus on Alberto Santos-Dumont with three limited-edition models dedicated to his greatest flying machines the Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited-Edition Le Brsil, Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited-Edition La Baladeuse, and Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited-Edition no. Its limited to 300 pieces. In my opinion this is one of the best pair watches you can find in the current market. The Le Brsil is the first model, inspired by and named for Santos-Dumonts first aviation balloon. However, from a collectors point of view, I have a bit of a mixed feel as the Santos Dumont embodied the most important wristwatch that Cartier ever made (for me even more important than the Cartier Tank) and previous the availability of the santos dumont was limited. Along with the Santos-Dumont XL introduced earlier, Cartier in presenting four Santos-Dumont limited editions, inspired by Alberto Santos-Dumont himself. For the La Baladeuse, a matching olive green alligator leather strap and a sapphire cabochon crown are paired with the watch, which is limited to 300 pieces and bears a drawing of the skyship on the closed caseback. limited-edition versions of the Santos-Dumont. The Santos is thus a significant watch, not only for Cartier but also for watchmaking in general. The distinction stands to this day, but with the launch last year of an all-new Santos Dumont range powered by high-precision quartz movements, the stage was set for a further elevation of the model. It also adds warmth and a pleasant touch of luxury. First, and not presented here, is a costly platinum version with a light blue dial (reference CRWGSA0048, limited to 100 pieces). Its also worth remembering that Santos-Dumonts daredevil flying feats made him a very popular figure in the day and his dapper dress sense combining Panama hats with linen suits with wing collars and trousers with large turn-ups became all the rage in Paris, the epitome of a stylish man of action. What started as a bespoke commission for the Brazilian aviator went into serial production in 1911 with LeCoultre movements. This would be the mission of another model, the Santos-Dumont, a name that refers to the more elegant, more historically accurate models in Cartiers books. Each of the three new models begins with the iconic shape of the 43.5mm large Santos-Dumont case, and while the square form with its distinctive bezel remains unchanged, each of the three new models interprets it in a different material. The third model is Le 14 bis, a steel edition with a yellow gold bezel and dark grey dial thats restricted to 500 pieces globally. It is equipped with a quick-release system to change the strap without the need for tools. Rendered in 18K yellow gold and offered on a green alligator leather strap, the Santos-Dumont La Baladeuse comes set with a sapphire cabochon on its crown and features a champagne dial and blued, sword-shaped hands. The thin, square case measures 46.6mm x 33.9mm and has a height of 7.5mm. Theres one more thing to keep in mind about the watch: It is a Cartier. I would buy it and wear it if I could afford it. We were fortunate enough to spend some hands-on time with the two-tone and the steel models and were pretty impressed. The Santos took off again in the 1970s when it was revisited in a bracelet piece with screws on the bezel and bracelet. All in all, with this combination of colours and the compact size of the watch, this Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition is once again typical of Cartiers vision of elegance. The dials of these three models follow a similar pattern, with Le Brsil going for a gleaming silver sunburst with polished applied numerals and gray sword hands, La Baladeuse remaining old-school Cartier with a champagne sunburst dial (along with black printed numerals and blued hands), and the no. "And he was a visionary because at the beginning of the 20th century his vision was pure science fiction. Paying tribute to the legacy of Alberto Santos-Dumonts effusive charm and immaculate style, the brand is introducing four special limited-edition models, each inspired by his aviation creations, without which the Cartier wristwatch may not have come about till much later. One thing is flat, another thing is flattened. In fact that particular model was the last one to receive it before this Santos. The Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition 2021 Steel-and-Gold reference CRW2SA0025 is a limited edition of 500 pieces. On the caseback, the profile of Le Brsil is engraved. Obviously, there are many people who favour the hassle-free maintenance of a quartz watch and are not prepared to spend an additional EUR 1,900 for a mechanical movement, but they are probably not devotees of MONOCHROME. He was visionary, explains Rainero of Santos-Dumont. These luxurious and slightly punchier models well not only well received but also sold well. The watch is fitted with a Cartier-branded version of Piagets ultra-thin, manual-winding calibre 430P calibre for the hours and minutes. The novelty of this new limited edition is the dial. well yes, you get the Cartier design and style which is fantastic, to be sure but you also get an extremely short power reserve, lack of waterproofing, unless you pay even more for a sports ADLC version. 14 bis, Dimensions: 43.5mm x 31.4 mm x 7.3mm (all three), Case Material: platinum (Le Brsil), 18k yellow gold (La Baladeuse), stainless steel and 18K yellow gold two-tone (no. Cartier 2022 PAPERS MINT Cartier Santos Dumont Rose Gold Steel Cartier Limited Edition Santos Dumont W2SA0025, Cartier W2SA0025PGLIMITEDSSxPG, Cartier Limited Edition Santos Dumont salmon dial. SUPERLATIVE: A WATCHMAKING STORY OF BROTHERHOOD AND SURVIVAL WITH AUTHOR SCOTT LENGA, What makes a tool watch Professional? The alligator leather straps are, for the most part, very traditional Cartier fare, with both Le Brsil and the no. With a height of just 2.1mm, the movement runs at a frequency of 21,600vph/3Hz and has a relatively short power reserve of 38 hours. Its priced at CHF 41,600. When placed side by side with the 1904 model, you can clearly see how the main features of the historic model have been respected. The hallmark square bezel is slightly rounded at the edges and features the mandatory eight screws that are set deep into the metal. As a highlight and homage to Santos-Dumonts significance to Cartier, the little Cartier signature that typically appears at the seven oclock marker has Santos on it instead. A handsome grey alligator leather strap sets off the elegantly silvered dial perfectly. In it, Santos-Dumont became the first aviator to complete a flight of 220 metres, for which he took the French Aero Club award of 1906. This year, the Parisian brand introduces two new limited edition models based on the Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Hand-Wound. It is now available for orders and is priced at EUR 6,960 (excl. While all three take the Santos-Dumont aesthetic in different directions, theres nothing here that feels out of place or extreme. The following year, Cartier launched the model that most were waiting for, the XL (for Extra-Large but still not that large) with a mechanical movement, which we reviewed here. The watch bears an engraving of the aircraft on the back and a crown capped with a blue spinel, as well as a matching grey alligator leather strap. dumont cartier mecanique cpcp On the one side, Frank agrees with everything said above, except that, according to him, the dial lacks originality and punch to him, the brushed pattern on the dial isnt pronounced enough and its too flat. The central case is made of stainless steel with a vertically brushed surface and with a polished bevel running on the side. 14 bis), olive green alligator leather strap (La Baladeuse), Price & Availability: $18,700 (Le Brsil), $14,300 (La Baladeuse), $7,250 (no. Used by Cartier in its extra-thin models of Santos-Dumont, Ballon Blue and Tortue and by Piaget in many of its Altiplano watches, the dependable and durable 430P has been around since 1998. In 1903, Santos-Dumont revealed La Baladeuse or No 9 (12,300) a single-seat motorised airship in which the inventor took to the skies above Paris to better demonstrate its potential as the avian equivalent of the nascent "horseless carriage". If you think about it though, collectors can still focus on those earlier limited models and everyone else can enjoy the newer, more easily available versions.In this way, Cartier offers something to attract both kinds of buyer. Who has the best summer watch flex: Erling Haaland, Mo Salah or Harry Kane? 14 bis), available April 25, 2020. Beating at 3Hz, it delivers a relatively short power reserve of 38 hours. I like this refreshed design since its announcement in 2019. While a bit pricey for the average joe, I feel the XL size is a marvel and it really doesnt appear that large on the models wrist. Over 4,000 successful private sellers each month. Taken out of production in 2016, the Santos de Cartier reappeared in 2018 with a refreshed, sportier and more curvaceous presence. The luxurious finishes enliven the case. Its large but sits well on my wrist, and the bigger size also adds some sporty vibe which is rooted in its heritage. Revisiting the oldest mens wristwatch in 2020 has its difficulties. But until 2019, we were only talking about a modern, larger and sportier watch inspired by the original Santos, not a watch with historical accuracy. Largely overlooked by the specialised watch media because it was fitted with a quartz movement, the Santos-Dumont of 2019 featured historical nods to the original with a beaded winding crown and the prominent blue cabochon along with a flatter, less voluminous case that the Santos de Cartier.